This
delightful walk will be of interest even to those who are not attracted
by normal shops.
The focus of this walk is the old galleries of Paris. Each one we
stroll through is very different, but all contain small independent
shops selling non-standard merchandise. We end the walk within a short
stroll of the large department stores of Paris, or alternatively at
a bus stop where transport to the Puce de St Ouen, the largest market
in Paris is available.
In distance the walk is only a couple of kilometres if that, some
people will do the walk in 90 minutes, others will take a day.
We start the walk at the Palais Royal metro station, (line 1 or 7
) next to the Louvre.
So first of all, get your bearings from the local maps in and around
the metro station and stroll across to the Palais Royal.
The Palais Royal was built in 1629 and is made up of two parts, the
palace and the galleries. The gardens are surrounded by the galleries
with cafes and shop, once the height of fashion in Paris. |
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Nothing
has changed much today, the gardens are a great place to relax and
the galleries around the gardens contain upmarket cafes and shops.
The Palace houses many French government departments to do with the
arts and there is often an exhibition or performance of some kind
going on.
In the courtyard the mosaic floor, columns and exhibits like in the
photograph on the right attract attention. |
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Gallery
Vivienne |
Try
to resist the temptations of the inviting gardens and head over to
the right hand side of the gardens, to the Gallery Valois.
Make your way up the gallery - this is the most expensive gallery
of the lot with high class art, shoes and antiques predominating.
At the far end is a good and expensive restaurant which spills out
with tables overlooking the gardens.
At the end of the gallery, along the northern border is a small road
- Rue de Beaujolais. You will see a small flight of steps on the opposite
side of the road. At the top of the steps, veer right into Passage
des Deux Pavillions (1820), a very short gallery which hardly counts.
You exit onto the Rue des Petit Champs. Facing you on the other side
of the road is the entrance of Gallery Vivienne (1826). The Galleries
are not well signposted and the entrances often need looking for. |
Gallery
Vivienne has been restored and is in good condition. The highlight
is perhaps the Jean Paul Gaultier shop. There is a good tea shop and
second hand bookshop among the options. The mosaic floor is also worthy
of note.
Gallery Vivienne bends left and eventually spills out onto the street.
Turn left on exiting, crossing to the other side of the road. Take
the first right into the Rue Des Petit Champs, keeping on the right
hand side of the road. After crossing 3 streets, keep an eye open
for the entrance to the Passage Choiseul on your right. |
The
Passage Choiseul is not as chic as the previous two galleries and
more a working gallery for everyday needs. At the end of the gallery
turn right on the Rue de Augustin. Follow this road until you get
to the busy Rue de Richelieu. Turn left, and follow the Rue de Richelieu,
almost immediately crossing the Rue de Quatre Septembre - a major
road.
On the other side on your right is the Bourse with a small square.
There is sometimes a small market here at weekends. The third turning
on your right after Rue de Quatre Septembre is the Rue Saint Marc,
take it. The next passage or gallery is the Passage de Panoramas on
your left, almost opposite the Rue de Panoramas a small street on
your right. |
Passage
Panaoramas is one of the oldest passages in Paris, dating from 1800.
There are a few branching galleries from the main south-north corridor
of the passage that were added later. This passage is more businesslike.
Look around and exit at the north entrance.
Immediately opposite on the other side of the road is Passage Jouffroy,
built in 1847. To the right of the entrance is the Musee Grevin waxworks,
the equivalent to Madame Tussauds in London.There are lots of shops
selling curios and second hand books in this passage.
In a similar vein, opposite the northern exit of Passage Jouffroy
is the Passage Verdau. This again is weighted towards books and collectables. |
Passage
Jouffroy |
This
is the end of the Passages we visit.
To continue the shopping theme we would recommend two 'follow on'
options. The Puce
de St Ouen is the largest flea market in Paris, but with a
difference. A large part of the market is made up of covered markets
selling antiques, furniture and anything collectable. In many ways
it complements what you have seen in the Passages.
The Puce
de St Ouen is only open Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays though.
On exiting the Passage Verdau, there is a bus stop on the other side
of the road where a number 85 bus stops, this bus will take you direct
to the market, about a 20 minute ride away.
Alternatively, retrace your steps to the southern entrance of the
Passage Jouffrey and turn right. The Boulevard Montmartre quickly
changes to the Boulevard Haussman. Keep following this main road and
it will eventually bring you into the main department stores of Paris
. |
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