Parc
des Butte Chaumont is one of our favourite urban parks in the world.
It has lakes, suspension bridges, grottoes and cafes imaginatively
developed from old quarries into a green wonderland.
Its a close neighbour of Pere Lachais cemetery, which has become a
major visitor attraction. So why not combine the two with a visit
to Pere Lachaise. Take an hours stroll through inner suburbia, via
Parc Belleville with some of the finest views of Paris City Centre
and finish it off with the delightful park of Butte Chaumont.
We have a special page on Pere Lachaise,
just east of the city centre, easily reached by Metro, (lines 2 or
3). Consult the local maps posted at the Metro Station and make for
the exit to the cemetery. Climb the steps up from the street, and
turn right. Follow the path parallel to the street to the main gate.
Here you can buy maps or guidebooks if you do not already have sufficient
reference material from your preparations. There are also toilets
here.
Maps of the cemetery are posted at frequent intervals.
Spend as long as you want in the cemetery, its a big place. By the
end of your visit you need to be at the other main gate on the opposite
(east) side of the cemetery. |
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Turn
left outside the East Gate, following the Rue des Chevrau which runs
north, parallel to the cemetery wall. When you comes to a busy crossroad,
go straight over. The Rue des Chevrau has become the Rue de Bidassoa.
Follow the road ignoring all turnoffs, it soon starts to gradually
descend. At the bottom of the descent the road merges into Rue Sorbier.
In about 50m you come to a crossroads with the major road, Rue del
Menilmontant. Turn left here along the Rue del Menilmontant crossing
a railway line below.
Cross over to the right hand side of the road, you soon come to the
imposing Notre Dame de la Croiz. Turn right here, doubling back in
front of the church. Walk about 75m along the road and you will come
to a footbridge that crosses the railway line. On the other side continue
a short way to a cross-roads, here we turn left into the Rue Henri
Chevreau. |
View
of Paris From
Belleville Park |
When
you come to a T junction with dense vegetation ahead, turn right and
cross over to the left hand side of the road. A short distance along
you come to steps, climbing the hill. Directly opposite the steps
is a small craft centre which depending on the day of your walk may
be open.
Climb to the top of the steps and along a subsequent short alley.
Turn left at the end and follow the road about 100m to the viewpoint
above Belleville Park, (see photograph).
This is one of the best views of Paris so you might have company with
a small tour group. Descend down into the park and make you way to
the bottom of the incline at the opposite end of the park.
At the bottom of the park, turn right into Rue Julian. Follow this
until you come to a main road, the Rue de Belleville. Turn right along
this neighbourhood shopping street with several restaurants and cafes.
Cross to the left hand side and take the Rue Rebeval left. Stay left
as the road curves round, descending to a cross-roads. Take the Rue
Pradier which forks off right at the intersection.
Follow the road about 100m to a cross-roads to another cluster of
neighbourhood shops and cafes. Turn left at the cross-roads, ahead
of you at the next junction is the Butte Chaumont Park on the other
side of the road. |
Butte
Chaumont |
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The Butte Chaumont is an old quarry with plenty of elevation changes
and hills in its 55 acres. We would recommend you bear left as you
enter the park, circumnavigating a steep hill. Keep to this main path
as it skirts the perimeter of the park. Ignore turnoffs, especially
to a main exit below left. The path allows you to gain altitude effortlessly
and after about 10 minutes the park opens up on your left into a grass
area that descends. At this point take the path left with good views
all around. A fork to the right takes you to the lookout point above
the lake (see centre photograph). This path loops back to the original
path which now crosses a suspension bridge. On the other side of the
bridge, the path descends to the lakeside.
This area is a good place to relax and watch the world go by whether
its the endless stream of joggers, a wedding photo shoot or old ladies
taking their dogs for a walk.
Outside the entrance here, at the northern exit you can catch buses
back into the centre from the other side of the road. The number 75
goes to Pont Neuf, next to the Louvre via the Pompidou Centre. The
number 48 terminates close by at the Palais Royal but goes via a different
route including Gare Nord and Grand Boulevards. By walking round to
the south-east tip of the park there is a Metro (line 7) at Botzaris. |
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